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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 1:05 am 
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In the course of my business (precision motion control) for some slightly less demanding applications, we utilise leadscrews which use a Polyacetal nut.
They're certainly good enough where duty cycles are lower and they have the advantage of being self-lubricating.

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 5:32 pm 
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Had fun getting the build plate leveled, the recommended feeler gauge is a sheet of printer paper (0.1mm). :D :-o Ran two different level tests, turned out pretty good.
However after getting the "stuff" off I decided to order a glass build plate and a LED desk light. As mentioned "no hair shirts"!

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 2:34 am 
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Don't get over exercised about levelling the plate. In practice (depending on the bed)I have found getting the level with paper is just a fair guide but best way is to start a print with a brim and while it is printing the brim, make small tweaks to the levelling screws so it is perfect by the time the brim is complete and the job proper starts. Perfect is easy to see visually - the bead of filament has visible height, applies smoothly and merges each strand. Plate too low and the bead does not adhere, too high and the bead is so thin as to be transparent. Re the earlier question re bearings, yes I have printed them - but only out of curiosity.


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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:39 am 
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After a few modifications — changed to a glass build plate, modified the level adjustment set up etc. I finally got at level test print that looks acceptable to my perception.

Image

Image

It's the old "you get what you pay for"; which quite often means too many cheap decisions and not enough QC.

Today I'll print the test-dog; after cleaning the glass plate and applying a suitable adherence base - this time some UHU stick glue.

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 11:17 am 
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If you are using PLA filament, don't bother with the glue. Set the nozzle to 210C and bed to 60C and it will adhere perfectly well. The UHU just makes a mess of the bed unless you are printing ABS or similar when the bed needs to be 90C and well glued, you would also want to think about an enclosure as a) ABS is smelly and b) heat retention for it.


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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2018 5:56 pm 
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Yeah that was a "needs to be tried moment", quite messy. I also tried "firm hold" hairspray, not as messy but still a PITA. Getting the settings right is definitely the way to go.

I cranked the glass bed up to 72º — the proper measuring implement will arrive shortly — the extruder at 200º and so far the test-dog is building nicely. SWMBO opined that watching paint dry is more entertaining than 3D printing. :-o

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2018 10:23 pm 
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It's a rude awakening when one gets confronted with the realities slicing the STL file presents. In the case of the weigh scale it is the supports required for the slightest little overhang. GiGo!
So back to the drawing board, divide into separate sub-assemblies and print again.

The positive part? Machine ran well!

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 2:30 am 
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Try using CURA for slicing, it handles support material very well https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultim ... a-software but as I mentioned, think about orientation in relation to overhang e.g. would that print better on its side or in one instance I have used, split down the middle, printed flat as two halves and joined once complete. Its a magical journey - did I mention DO NOT TOUCH THE PRINT HEAD ITS VERY HOT.


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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2018 11:09 am 
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That's what I'm using CURA 3.5.1 no problem with the slicing, a major problem with my thinking. 8-| 8-|

Image

Grouped the SU design, export as SLT, place in in Cura etc.
The next kick will be .... design with several sub-assemblies.

Printing as is would probably work with SLA.

PS haven't touched the print head, yet. Magical journey is the word! :ymdevil: :ymdevil:

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:27 pm 
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Just a suggestion to try - from the shape of it, cut it in half length ways, about the symmetrical axis (blue lines) and flop it down horizontally in 2 parts, left and right, print and stick together. Not sure how well those shaded red may work, depends on size, they are instance where it may be better fabricated from plasticard or similar

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:48 pm 
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Thanks Jim!

Present plan: slice it length wise (like you show) with the axis of the slice going through the center of those venting caps, flop it flat and see what that prints.

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:37 am 
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Grey and yellow PLA arriving today, next project are the small covers for the hand throw turnouts.

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 3:14 pm 
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When you change the filament, make sure you run plenty of the new colour through the nozzle before starting to print otherwise colour will be tainted. Often when changing filament, you will find the nozzle blocks as a small plug of the old filament remains stuck inside the nozzle and you are unable to get new material through. When it gets jammed up - as it will eventually - all the "traditional" advice about clearing it is a waste of time. Take the nozzle out of the printer and holding the nozzle with pliers at an angle of about 20 degrees, apply a gas soldering blowtorch, flame off the PLA and let the blockage drip out of the back of the nozzle. Use a single strand of electrical wire to clear any residue. THIS ALSO MAKES THE NOZZLE VERY HOT. I know it may sound a bit brutal - but guaranteed to work and has never caused any of my nozzles, brass or steel any harm.


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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 11:17 am 
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Thanks Jim! Yes I usually push a good bit through to clean the nozzle. So far so good, changed from white to black and then to gray.

Printed a few sample parts — covers for the toggle switches of the hand-thrown turnouts.

Image

Image

Image

Have some PETG and TPU material on order. The PLA is just an experiment which (going by general comments) will not stand up in our conditions — heat and high UV. As is clear from the picture the snow has melted in the valley. That's OK as long as we have lots of good stuff up on the mountain. ;) :D

Almost ready to print some mods to enable TPU and other flex filament usage.

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 Post subject: Re: 3D printer
PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2018 12:41 pm 
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The next project that is now running is the new snowplow for the BoBo2 which was designed by Keith' s son.

Since I want a fine finish there will be 0.1mm layers and the projected running time (CURA) is 3.5 hours.
Picture coming up once it's done.

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